Nephrolepis exaltata, common name: Boston Fern

Plant Care Cheat Sheet

Difficulty Level: Medium
Light Requirements: Medium indirect light
Humidity Requirements: High humidity required

Native to the tropics, the Boston fern is an affordable, beautiful, classic, and relatively manageable plant that can be either in or outdoors. The Boston fern has gracefully arching fronds which can get quite long as the plant matures.

Light

Boston fern does not want to be in direct sun. When outside, the fern should be in full shade. Indoors, the Boston fern prefers bring indirect light. However, it can handle medium light.

Crispy, browning, or yellowing fronds may be a sign of too much direct light, or not enough water or humidity.

Watering and Humidity

Water and humidity is the most important thing to get right for a Boston fern. This fern does not like to dry out, and can not handle dry conditions.

Water your Boston fern before the soil dries out totally. I can usually tell mine is ready for water because the leaves start to look a bit thinner and more translucent (it's a subtle difference, you need to get to know your plant).

Providing high humidity is vital for ferns, Boston fern included. If you live in a low humidity environment, you will definitely need to provide extra humidity for this plant. I use two different humidifiers in my home: one smaller one which needs regularly refilling, and a larger one by Onson which can run for a day or two straight. The smaller humidifier can double as an essential oil diffuser, while the larger one has three different steam settings. Both are great for different needs and spaces, so choose a size depending on how much humidity you need to supplement.

Always try to keep the humidity level above 50% for you Boston fern to be as happy as possible. I use this humidity meter to ensure I am providing enough moisture to my humidity-loving plants.

Propagating

Boston ferns can be propagated via division.

Pet safe plant!

While most ferns are poisonous to cats and dogs, Boston Fern is not! This makes a great addition to your home no matter who you share it with.

Schefflera arboricola, common name: Umbrella plant.

Plant Care Cheat Sheet

Difficulty Level: Easy
Light Requirements: Bright indirect light
Humidity Requirements: Room humidity okay

Native to Thailand, Schefflera plants are some of the easiest to grow houseplants that can either work as a small bushy plant or a tall statement tree. The shape of the umbrella plant will depend entirely on your pruning.

The plant is identified by it's seven-part leaves which splay out like fingers. Young stem growth on the Schefflera is green, but over time the plant will harden to a more woody stem.

Variegated versions of this plant usually contain a yellow or creamy edge.

Light

Although the Schefflera will thrive in ideal conditions, it makes a great beginner plant since it is tolerant of low light, stress, and imperfect conditions.

Schefflera prefers bright indirect light, although it more can handle some of lower light conditions. I have had this plant directly in East-facing windows, 6 ft away from an East window, on a covered porch, and even in a dark corner in a desperate situation.

In it's natural environment, Schefflera arboricola grows under the trunks of larger trees. As such, you'll want to avoid direct sun light. Too much sun will burn or bleach leaves.

If your start to see your Schefflera plant becoming "leggy" (long spaces between the leafs) or reaching for the light, it may not be getting enough light.

Watering and Humidity

Schefflera prefers to mostly dry out before being watered. Avoid letting the umbrella tree sit in soggy soil.

Be sure your Schefflera is planted in well-draining soil in a pot with drainage. Schefflera could be fine any kind of pot, but be sure to adjust your water intake accordingly. Use our houseplant pot guide to know how much you should water for different kinds of pots.

Bottom leaves will naturally drop as the plant grows, however, if you notice many leafs yellowing at once this may be a sign of over watering and root rot.

Encouraging branching

Keep your Schefflera arboricola bushy and full-looking with regular pruning.

It can be nerve-wrecking to cut a beautiful branch off of your plant, but this is important for the long-term growth and success of your umbrella tree!

Use clean pruning sheers or a clean sharp knife to cut where you notice leggy growth or would like to encourage branching.

Within a few weeks (probably sooner), you will notice new growth from the point where you  cut. The growth begins as teeny little "baby arms" and soon grows into the classic Schefflera shape.

You can propagate the branches you have cut in water or in soil with rooting hormone. They take a long time to begin to root, but it will probably happen eventually.

Warning: Dangerous to pets!

All Schefflera species are poisonous to cats and dogs. It chewed, it may cause oral irritation, upset stomach, or more severe symptoms if a lot is ingested.

Monstera adansonii, common name: Swiss Cheese Vine

Plant Care Cheat Sheet

Difficulty Level: Medium
Light Requirements: Bring indirect light
Humidity Requirements: Room humidity okay, prefers high

The Monstera adansonii is a great addition to any plant collection. Famous for it's beautiful fenestrations, adansonii are a smaller, vining variety of Monstera which comes in many forms. (Pictured below are narrow form adansonii).

While most adansonii are pretty easy to come by these days, there is a variegated form of adansonii which is more rare.

The plant is a fast grower when in the right conditions, and can quickly take over any space. Andaonsii can either be a hanging vine, or climb up a pole or wall. Adansonii have very stick aerial roots which will grab onto anything!

Light

Monstera adanonsii can survive in medium-low light conditions. (Keep in mind, low light does not mean no light!) However, a like most Monstera will really thrive in bright indirect light. Adaonsii leaves are much smaller than Monstera Deliciosa but will grow larger and more beautiful if exposed to more light.

However, you'll want to avoid direct sun light. Too much sun will burn or bleach pothos leafs. Yellow or browning leaves may be a sign of too much direct sun.

If your start to see your pothos plant becoming "leggy" (long spaces between the leaves), reaching for the light, or producing small juvenile leaves, it may not be getting enough light.

Watering and Humidity

Water your adansonii when the top inch or so of soil feels dry to the touch. If you're not sure if your plant needs water, wait until the leaves feel thin and droopy. Water thoroughly until water runs out of the bottom of the pot.

Be sure your Monstera adansonii is planted in well-draining soil in a pot with drainage. Monsteras do well in a glazed clay or plastic pot. I would not recommend a terracotta pot.

If you notice many leaves yellowing at once this may be a sign of over watering and root rot.

Monstera can survive lower humidity, but will be much happier with higher levels (above 50%). I use this humidity meter to ensure I am providing enough moisture to my humidity-loving plants.

Propagation and Pruning

Propagating adansonii is incredibly easy. Simply take a stem cutting below a node (the bump on the stem from where the leaf grows) and plop the stem in water.

When the cutting has developed a decent root system (a few inches), plant the cuttings in soil. Keep the soil moist while the plant adjusts.

You may re-pot the rooted cuttings back into the mother plant to maintain a bushier plant.

You may want to regularly prune this plant to keep it from getting too leggy, or encourage branching on the vines.

Warning: Dangerous to pets

All Monstera varieties are poisonous to cats and dogs. It chewed, it may cause oral irritation, excessive drooling, vomiting, or difficulty swallowing.

Difficulty Level: Easy
Light Requirements: Bright light, full sun okay
Humidity Requirements: Room humidity okay

The Aloe plant can be a beautiful addition to your plant collection, or a useful addition to your medicine cabinet. This plant is well-known for it's topical healing properties, and is native to Africa.

Light

Aloe plants, like other succulents, need bright sunlight during most of the day. They can be grown outside in full sun if properly acclimated - however don't put it directly in the full sun if your plant is used to growing indoors. Slowly move it closer and closer to the sun so your plant can acclimate without causing burn damage on the leaves.

Aloe plants enjoy an unblocked Southern or Western exposure, right next to the window where they can soak up the sun.

Watering, Humidity, and Soil

The Aloe plant is drought resistant, and does not need watering often - depending on how much sun it gets. The best way to tell when a Aloe plant is thirsty is by feeling the leaves. The leaves will feel less plump when they are dry. If you tend to over-water your plants, wait until the Aloe tells you it's thirsty before watering to avoid root rot!

The size and type of pot your Aloe is in will also impact its watering requirements. Our guide on choosing the right pot for your houseplant covers this in more detail, however I always recommend potting succulents in terracotta to help wick away extra moisture.

My Aloe gets bright direct afternoon sun from a Western exposure, and is in a medium-sized terracotta pot. I typically water the large Aloe every other week in the Spring-Fall. The small aloe, which is still developing it's root system, is watered weekly. It will need less water in the Winter months.

Jade, like most other succulents, will be fine in standard room humidity.

Propagating Aloe

Unlike many other succulents, Aloe can not be propagated via leaf cuttings. However, the Aloe will propagate itself by shooting off new babies from the mother stem.

When you see an offshoot pop out of the soil, wait until the young aloe is the desired size (at least a couple inches tall). Then, use a sharp knife or shears to cut the offshoot as close to the mother stem as possible.

Replant the offshoot in well-draining soil.

Toxic to pets!

Although Aloe may be used topically to help calm skin irritations, it may be toxic when consumed.

Epiprenum aureum, common names: Devil's Ivy, Philodendron (misnomer)

Plant Care Cheat Sheet

Difficulty Level: Easy
Light Requirements: Medium light, can survive in low
Humidity Requirements: Room humidity okay

The pothos plant is one of the easiest and most ubiquitous houseplants. It is well-loved for it's ability to survive in nearly any light conditions, beautiful vining foliage, and ease of propagation.

Pothos comes in a variety of forms, including variegated varieties.

Light

Pothos can survive in low light conditions. (Keep in mind, low light does not mean no light!) However, a pothos will really thrive in medium to bright indirect light. Pothos leafs will grow larger and more beautiful if exposed to more light.

However, you'll want to avoid direct sun light. Too much sun will burn or bleach pothos leafs.

If your start to see your pothos plant becoming "leggy" (long spaces between the leafs) or reaching for the light, it may not be getting enough light.

Watering and Humidity

Water your pothos when the top inch or so of soil feels dry to the touch. If you're not sure if your plant needs water, wait until the leafs droop. Pothos is a very vocal plant, and tells you when it's thirsty. Water thoroughly until water runs out of the bottom of the pot.

Be sure your pothos is planted in well-draining soil in a pot with drainage. Pothos does well in a glazed clay or plastic pot.

Losing leafs occasionally is normal, however if you notice many leafs yellowing at once this may be a sign of over watering and root rot.

Propagation

Propagating pothos is incredibly easy. Simply take a stem cutting below a node (the bump on the stem from where the leaf grows) and plop the stem in water.

When the cutting has developed a decent root system, plant the cuttings in soil.

You may re-pot the rooted cuttings back into the mother plant to maintain a bushier plant.

Pet safe plant

All varieties of Epiprenum aureum are safe for cats and dogs.

Be aware of impostors!
Be aware that some plants commonly labeled "pothos" are not actually Epiprenum aureum and may be dangerous to pets.

The plant commonly known as "silver pothos" or "satin pothos", Scindapsus pictus, is actually toxic to pets. Philodendron plants are also regularly mislabeled as pothos", and may be dangerous to pets.

Crassula ovata

Plant Care Cheat Sheet

Difficulty Level: Easy
Light Requirements: Bright light, full sun okay
Humidity Requirements: Room humidity okay

The Jade plant (Crassula ovata) is a beautiful and easy succulent to grow. Although it is a slower grower, its juicy leaves and bonsai abilities make it a classic. The Jade is native to South Africa and Mozambique where it grows as a shrub.

Light

Jade plants need bright sunlight during most of the day. They can be grown outside in full sun if properly acclimated - however don't put it directly in the full sun if your plant is used to growing indoors. Slowly move it closer and closer to the sun so your plant can acclimate without causing burn damage on the leaves.

The Jade may develop red coloration on the leaves if exposed to too much sun. If it becomes "leggy" (too much space between the leaves), this means it is stretching to find light and needs more sun.

Jade plants enjoy an unblocked Southern or Western exposure, right next to the window where they can soak up the sun.

Watering

The Jade plant has evolved to be drought resistant, and does not need watering often - depending on how much sun it gets. The best way to tell when a Jade plant is thirsty is by feeling the leaves. The leaves will feel less plump and begin to shrivel like raisins when they are dry. If you tend to over-water your plants, wait until the Jade tells you it's thirsty before watering to avoid root rot!

The size and type of pot your Jade is in will also impact its watering requirements. Our guide on choosing the right pot for your houseplant covers this in more detail, however I always recommend potting succulents in terracotta to help wick away extra moisture.

My Jade gets bright direct afternoon sun from a Western exposure, and is in a medium-sized terracotta pot. I typically water it every other week in the Spring-Fall. It will need less water in the Winter months.

Jade, like most other succulents, will be fine in standard room humidity.

Propagating Jade

Jade can be propagated from leaf or branch cuttings in soil. Follow our Succulent Propagation 101 guide for more details on cloning you Jade plant.

Toxic to pets!

Jade is toxic to pets and humans when consumed, so keep out of reach of fur babies or children.

Plectranthus verticillatus

Plant Care Cheat Sheet

Difficulty Level: Easy
Light Requirements: Bright indirect light
Humidity Requirements: Room humidity okay

Given the right amount of light, Swedish Ivy is a prolific grower that can soon take over your whole room! This severely underrated houseplant is one of my favorites. With long tendrils of semi-succulent leaves, this Ivy is both beautiful and easy to care for. It's one of the easiest plants to propagate, too, so your house will be full of it in no time!

Light

Swedish Ivy loves bright indirect light. Although it is a little tougher in direct sun than some plants, it will get discolored if left in direct sun for too long. If your plant starts to turn red and vein-y looking, this means it's getting too much light.

I usually place my Swedish Ivy directly next to my highest light window and let it trail down the side of the curtains (as seen below). In an East or North window, you may be able to put the plant directly in the window.

Given enough light, this plant is a very fast grower! If treated well, the Swedish Ivy will reward you in the summer with beautiful and dainty white/purple flowers.

Watering

Watering this plant is easy because it is very vocal. The normally thick and semi-succulent leaves will visibly droop and soften when it's time to be watered. I can usually tell by looking at or feeling the leaves for thickness to tell when my Swedish Ivy is thirsty.

When it's time to water, I normally bring the whole hanging planter straight into the shower and give it a thorough soak. Leave it to drip dry for a bit before hanging it back up.

It's okay to let the Swedish Ivy dry out a bit between watering. The leaves will perk right back up after a good drink!

Humidity

The Swedish ivy is fine in standard room humidity, although it loves the chance to get outside in the warm weather.

Propagating

The Swedish Ivy is one of the easiest plants to propagate, right up there with Pothos.

Simply take some vine cuttings, remove the lower leaves, and root the cuttings in water. In a matter of days you'll start to see roots forming!

Personally, I think the Swedish Ivy is beautiful in water and tend to leave my propagation rooting in water longer than necessary just for the aesthetics. But, whenever you are ready, simply pot your cutting up in some soil. Swedish Ivy isn't picky about soil - standard houseplant potting mix like this one by Espoma will do. After potting, keep the plant moist for a few days while it adjusts to soil.

Enjoy your infinite ivy!

Pet-safe plant!

Swedish ivy, unlike many other ivies, is non-toxic to cats and dogs.

Calathea hybrid, common names: White Fusion Peacock Plant, prayer plant

Plant Care Cheat Sheet

Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Light Requirements: Medium indirect light
Humidity Requirements: High humidity

Calathea white fusion is one of the most beautiful variegated houseplants available at an affordable price. Sometimes called a peacock plant, it features white splotched patterning on the leaves, and pink/purple coloration on the undersides and stems. A unique cultivar of the popular Calathea genus, the white fusion is one of many plants commonly referred to as "prayer plants", which also includes Maranta plants. The plants get their name from their tendency to fold up at night, mimicking a "prayer" pose.

Calathea have a bit of a reputation for being tricky - but once you get the hang of it, the plants can be relatively forgiving and bounce back even after months of mistreatment.

Care Requirements

Calathea white fusion appreciates bright indirect light, but can handle medium indirect light as well. Keep the Calathea white fusion out of direct sunlight, or the patterns on the leaves may get bleached out.

Typically, placing your plant just back from an East, West, or North facing window will work well. Consider adding a sheer curtain to help diffuse the light from the window and protect your plant's foliage.

The most important requirement for caring for any Calathea, and especially the white fusion, is high humidity. Calathea are native to the South American tropics, and evolved in a very humid environment. White fusion leaves are especially thin compared to other Calathea, and are even more prone to drying out.

Keep your white fusion in a high-humidity environment with a humidifier. Personally, I keep my white fusion right next to this humidifier, which I've used with my plants for years. You may also want to bring your Calathea with you into the bathroom when you shower for an extra humidity treat! (Do not let hot water actually touch the leaves, it will burn them).

If you don't have a humidifier, try placing your Calathea near water. This can happen either by using a pebble tray with water, keeping it in a high-humidity location like in a bathroom, or regular misting. Also try keeping high-humidity plants together, as they will help keep the air moist for each other.

Calathea will do well in a terrarium thanks to the high humidity provided by the enclosed space.

Water Calathea with distilled or filtered room temperature water.

Common Problems

Rot is the biggest threat facing Calathea white fusion and other high-humidity plants. The moist soil environment is ripe for bacteria and fungus to grow, and may also attract pests. Avoid rot by not over-watering, making sure the top of the soil has dried before watering again. Be sure to use a pot with a drainage hole, and don't let your Calathea sit in water. You may also want to apply neem oil occasionally, which is a natural insecticide and will help prevent pests like fungal gnats from thriving in the moist environment.

If you experience rot, remove all soil, remove rotted parts of the root or plant, and replant into new soil.

If your leaves are curling or crisping, this means you either are not providing enough water or humidity. Too much light may also cause leaf curling - this is a tactic plants use to avoid the light and preserve moisture under duress.

Crisping leaves may also be a result of chemicals in your water, try watering with filtered, distilled, or rain water instead.

Pet safe plant!

All Calathea are safe for cats and dogs if ingested, so make a good addition to any home with fur babies. However, you'll probably want to keep your Calathea away from your pets or children anyway so they don't destroy the beautiful foliage.

Tradescantia spathacea, common names: Boat lily, Moses-in-a-basket, oyster plant, Rhoeo spathacea (former name)

Plant Care Cheat Sheet

Difficulty Level: Easy
Light Requirements: Bright light, direct or indirect
Humidity Requirements: Standard room humidity

Tradescantia spathacea is a beautiful and easy houseplant for beginners, as long as you have enough light to provide the plant. The gorgeous purple variation on the leaves provides a pop of color to any plant collection. The plant is low maintenance, a decently fast grower, and easy to propagate - making it a great plant for anyone.

Care Requirements

Tradescantia spathacea is similar to succulents in its environmental condition requirements. It prefers bright light, and is tolerant of direct sun for a couple hours per day. It should be happy in a South, East, or Western facing window sill. The more sun provided to this plant, the faster it will grow offshoots.

If your plant starts to stretch out, this means it's not getting enough light.

The oyster plant, as it's sometimes called, prefers to dry out in between watering. Use a well-draining potting mix (succulent or cactus mixes work well), and be sure your pot has a drainage hole.

Overwatering can lead to rot, and is a bigger risk for this plant than under watering. The oyster plant is usually happy in a terracotta pot which helps whisk away extra moisture to prevent watering. It is natural for the lower leaves to brown up and fall off over time, however if you have a lot of leaves yellowing or rotting off, consider letting the plant dry out some more.

This Tradescantia won't do well in the cold, so keep it away from draft windows in winter.

Propagating Tradescantia spathacea

Propagating the oyster plant is super easy.  The plant produces offshoots which can be removed and re-potted in soil, or rooted in water first.

When removing a shoot, cut as close to the main plant as possible to optimize your chance of rooting. You may want to dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone prior to planting the cutting in soil to help encourage growth, however it is not necessary.

If you keep your Tradescantia happy, you may soon have many to share!

Danger: keep away from pets!

Tradescantia spathacea is toxic to pets (and humans!). The leafs contain a sap which is irritating to the mouth if consumed, and may harm anyone who eats it. From personal experience, cats love to chew on this plant - so be sure to keep it well out of way of any pets or children!

If you break a leaf and get the sap on your hands, wash your hands immediately and do not touch any sensitive areas like the eyes or mouth.

Pilea peperomioides, common names: Chinese money plant, pancake plant, UFO plant, pass it on plant

Plant Care Cheat Sheet

Difficulty Level: Easy
Light Requirements: Medium indirect light
Humidity Requirements: Standard room humidity

The Pilea peperomioides became a popular houseplant in the past few years due to its striking and unique UFO-shaped leaves. Its species name, peperomioides, means "Peperomia-like", which is appropriate since the round leaves have historically led many to believe it is a Peperomia.

Although this plant has no particularly difficult requirements, based on my experience the saucer-like leaves can be finicky in the wrong conditions.

Care Requirements

The Pilea peperomioides is generally happy in medium indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight on the foliage. I typically keep mine a few feet back from an East-facing window, or on the other side of the room from a Southern exposure window. Rotate your plant 90 degrees every month to grow a well-balanced plant.

Water your pilea thoroughly when the top inch of soil feels dry, and ensure the pot provides good drainage. Either a terracotta or plastic pot is fine, however you will likely have to water your plant more if it's in terracotta. The leaves do droop a bit when the plant is thirsty, so if you notice drooping it's probably time to check your soil to see if it's dried out!

Pilea peperomioides will be fine in standard room humidity, but appreciates being misted occasionally.

Avoid letting the plant get too hot or too cold - room temperature is just right for Pilea peperomioides.

Pilea peperomioides propagation

One of the best parts of Pilea peperomioides is how easy it is to propagate this plant to either grow your collection for free, or share with a friend. The ease of propagation has led to the plant's nickname, "the pass it on plant".

The Pilea essentially propagates itself. Little shoots will pop up out of the roots with young plants attached. When a shoot is at least one inch long, it can safely be removed from the mother plant and rooted.

Cut the stem of the young shoot as close to the mother plant as you can with a clean, sharp clipper. The cutting can then be rooted in soil or rooted in water and transplanted to soil. You may want to dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone prior to planting the cutting in soil to help encourage growth, however it is not necessary.

Depending on your preferred style, you can either let the babies grow out for a fuller, more bushy Pilea plant, or you can snip the babies as they pop up for a bunch of more minimalist plants.

Pet safe plant!

Pilea peperomioides is non-toxic to cats and dogs.

Succulents are some of the easiest plants to propagate. By taking only a few leaf cuttings, you can easily multiply your collection of these beautiful and rewarding plants.

Although there are many ways you can propagate succulents, this is the system that I personally use and has worked well for me.

Propagated plants are clones of the mother plant, so you can expect them to have similar properties.

This post primarily focuses on Jade plant propagation but, as you will see, the same system can be used for nearly any succulent.

Step 1: Take leaf cuttings

The first step to cloning your succulent is to take a leaf cutting. I recommend starting with removing only one or two leaves per plant until you are sure you know how to successfully root the cuttings.

To take a cutting, you may use sharp gardening sheers of a knife to cut the leaf. Make your cut as close to the main stem as possible to give your leaf the best chance of rooting.

If you are nervous about cutting your plants, you can also simply wait until you accidentally snap a leaf off. This is what I do, personally, and with lots of plants in close quarters it's not an uncommon occurrence!

Step 2: Place cuttings in soil

Once you have all your desired cuttings, place them on top of a well-draining succulent or cactus mix soil. I personally use this soil by Hoffman, and mix extra perlite into it.

Perlite is the little white balls you may see in commercial potting mixes. It's a naturally-occurring puffed volcanic glass which helps provide aeration and break up dense soil mixed. I always cut my soil with this perlite by Espoma, which helps prevent root rot. For succulent plants, which require very well-draining soil, this is extra important. However, if you do not have perlite, you can still have success with standard succulent mix.

When placing your cutting on soil, you may either lay them directly on top of the soil or lightly cover just the tip of the leaf with a tiny bit of soil. Personally, I prefer to cover the tips.

You can use any sort of container for this step. Obviously containers with drainage are always better, but since you will not be wetting the soil very much yet it is less important right now. I use old candle holders which I have cleaned out until the root system becomes more developed. You can also use a Tupperware container, mug, or, of course, a proper planter.

Step 3: Give your cuttings bright light

Place your leaf tray in a location with bright light. Direct sun is okay, as long as the mother plant was adjusted to direct sun. Typically, I put my succulent propagation right next to the mother plant to keep the conditions consistent.

Step 4: Wait for rooting

After you have placed your cuttings in the sun, the next step is simply to wait for them to start to take root. Do not water your cuttings until roots start to form, or else you may risk rotting the cuttings!

You may be able to see the roots forming on the leaf if you did not cover it in soil, however, if you did, you may need to push back the soil to tell if the cutting is rooting.

Not all cuttings will always root at the same speed, so if one cutting takes and another does not show progress yet, do not give up on it! It may still root later on.

Step 5: Water cuttings

A common misconception is that succulents do not need water. They do! However, you do not want to soak the soil, allow the soil to sit in a damp condition, or water right away. As mentioned above, wait until you see signs of rooting before you start to provide any water.

Once roots are beginning to establish, start providing very small amounts of water. Never provide enough water that the soil becomes soaked to the bottom - there is no need! Your roots aren't that big yet and won't be able to absorb it! This will only lead to water.

Personally, I water rooted succulent cuttings by putting a mister right up to the soil, and providing two pumps of concentrated mist per rooted cutting directly where the roots are. You do not need to wet the entire area of the soil, only put a bit of water to the roots. If there are cuttings in your tray that are not rooted yet, skip them.

Step 6: Watch baby plants grow!

As your succulent cuttings continue to root, you will start to see new growth coming out of the base of the plant. New succulents grow slowly, but watching them create a whole new plant just from the energy provided in one leaf is very rewarding.

Once your plants are large enough to require separation, re-pot each new plant in a terracotta pot with a drainage hole and well-draining soil.

Enjoy your new succulent plants!

Picking the right pot for your plant isn't just a matter of aesthetics. The right pot will help you and your plant develop a healthy relationship and lead to a beautiful, happy houseplant.

There are three main aspects to consider when choosing a pot, and all three of them relate to water retention: the type of pot, size of pot, and pot drainage. In this guide, we'll cover all three considerations for a range of common houseplant types. Specifically, we'll focus on succulents and tropicals, the two most popular types of houseplants. However, these general rules can be applied to any houseplant as long as you understand it's watering requirements.

Type of Pot

The main consideration when picking a type of pot is how much can this plant tolerate drying out between watering.

There are three primary types of pots to consider: terracotta, glazed clay, and plastic. Each one has pros and cons, so picking the right one depends on the watering needs of your plant and how you personally are at watering.

Plastic pots retain the most moisture. Terracotta pots, on the other hand, are very porous and will suck water away from the soil. In general, I recommend terracotta plants for succulents, cacti, and other plants that love to really dry out between watering. Tropical foliage plants, on the other hand, tend to love moisture and won't do well if they dry out all the way - so a plastic pot is better for them.

Glazed clay pots offer a happy middle ground. If you want to retain moisture, but your plant is simply too heavy for a plastic pot, the hefty glazed clay pots will be perfect.

However, there may be other considerations when picking the type of pot for your plant. Over watering, for example, can cause root rot when extra moisture is retained in the soil. If you know you have the bad habit of over-watering your plants, you may want to use terracotta for your houseplants to help you avoid root rot. On the other hand, if you tend to forget about your plants for weeks on end, you may want to place even succulents in a moisture-retaining plastic pot.

If you want to keep your plants moist but you don't like the look of plastic pots, consider using a cachepot - a decorative outer pot you can plop your plastic pots into.

Personally, I usually keep my moisture-loving plants in their nursery pots until they out grow them, using cachepots for aesthetics. I always repot succulents into terracotta pots right away.

Picking a pot size

Picking the right pot size for your plant is important for ensuring the plant receives the right amount of water - not too much, or too little. Both over and under watering can kill your plant, and picking the wrong pot size can be a death sentence.

Pots that are too small

If your plant is already in a pot, you probably don't need to repot it until it is nearly root-bound. A root-bound plant is when the roots have totally outgrown the pot. This normally looks like a nest of roots swirling around the bottom and sides of the pot. You may also see roots growing out of the pot from the bottom, sides, or even out of the top of the soil.

When a plant becomes root-bound, the soil becomes very tightly compacted around the roots to accommodate them. This makes the soil less able to retain water, and prevents oxygen flow. As a result, a root-bound plant may have a hard time absorbing water, no matter how much you water it.

When you are repotting a plant, it is important to not choose a size so small that the plant will not be able to retain any moisture from the soil.

Pots that are too big

The flip side of this is that a pot that is too big will retain too much moisture, leading to root rot. Root rot is when excess water in the soil prevents oxygen from circulating, causing the roots of the plant to decay.

This, ironically, may mimic the effect of under watering. Because the roots are dying off, they are not actually able to bring water and nutrients to the plant. An early warning sign of root rot is yellowing and dropping leaves while your soil still feels moist.

Pots that are too big can lead to root rot because the root system of the plant is not developed enough to suck up moisture from the entire volume of the pot. This results in excess water sitting in the soil, which will create the conditions for rot.

If this condition goes unchecked and develops into severe rot, you may need to cut back your plant significantly to safe it - and that's still not a guarantee.

Providing Drainage

Pots without drainage holes have the same problem as pots that are too big for your plant or retain too much moisture: root rot.

Drainage holes at the bottom of your pot allow excess water to flow out of the plant, so it doesn't end up sitting in your soil. I never recommend using a pot without any drainage - however this can come in a few forms.

When using a nursery pot inside a cachepot, the decorative cachepot on the outside will not have drainage holes. When you water plants in cachepot, take them out of the decorative pot and water them directly over the sink or bathtub and allow it to drain a bit before returning the plant into the decorative pot. Otherwise, excess water will drain out of the nursery pot and into the cachepot, only to be reabsorbed.

If your pot does not have drainage holes on it already, some people suggest adding a layer or two of pebbles or charcoal to catch extra water - however, I personally do not recommend this tactic and never use it. The gravel simply creates a reservoir for water to collect in, which does not solve the problem! I prefer to simply drill a hole into my pots when necessary to ensure the plant has the proper drainage.

Finding the right space for your houseplant is the first step in giving it a long and happy life. There are two main factors to consider when picking a new home for your plant: light requirements, and humidity requirements.

If you don't have a home with multiple light sources to choose from, you may have to get creative to make a space more welcoming to your plant. Before you bring home a new plant, it is always best to be sure you'll have a the right space for it.

Light

Light is the number one factor when picking a space for your plant. Most plants can safely be categorized as either requiring high, medium, or low light. To be clear, low light doesn't mean no light! In a low light space, you should still be able to read a book with the lights off.

Sources of light are typically either windows or artificial indoor lights. Plants can photosynthesize using artificial light, however it is rarely as effective as natural sunlight (unless you have a grow light). Direct light is when the rays from the sun fall directly onto the plant. Indirect light is when the light is diffused, either throughout the room or with a filtering curtain.

Judging Window Light

Windows can provide a range of different levels of light, primarily depending on their size and orientation. In the Northern Hemisphere, Southern facing windows get the most light throughout the day. Eastern facing windows will get direct morning sun, and bright indirect light the rest of the day. Western windows will receive bright direct afternoon or evening light, and Northern windows receive the least amount of light throughout day.

Of course, this is just generally speaking. If your Southern window is blocked by a large apartment building right next to you, another window may actually provide more light if there is less blockage.

Get to know the light your space provides by walking through your home at various points of the day - morning, afternoon, and evening. Take note of which rooms are naturally bright (with the lights off), and where the direct sun rays fall.

Know Your Plant's Light Needs

Even if you don't know the name of your plant, you can often guess from the shape and texture of the plant what the plant's light requirements will be. In general, succulent plants and cacti require very high light and are tolerant of direct light. There plants are able to survive periods of drought, which is often associated with a hot and bright climate.

Another clue that your plant may light high is fuzziness on the leaves. Fuzz on leaves is an adaptation which bounces the light away from the leaves, meaning it likely comes froma high light environment.

Typically, tropical indoor plants (like Monsteras, Peperomias, and other common tropicals) are fine in medium-bright indirect light. Tropical plants rarely do well with direct sunlight, and too much light can burn the leaves or cause a bleaching effect. Then-leaved plants are particularly susceptible to sun damage.

In general, the darker a plant is the more tolerant it is of low light conditions (compared to similar plants in it's family). The green on leaves comes from chloroform, a necessary component of the photosynthesis process. When plants have more chloroform, they are generally better at photosynthesizing and therefore need less light.

Similarly, the more variation (patterned light coloration on the leaves) a plant has, the more light it will need. Variegated plants are at risk of reverting to their unvariegated state if they don't receive enough light.

Humidity

Humidity is the amount of water in the air. Typically, the only room in a home with high humidity throughout the day is the bathroom. Other rooms may require humidifiers or other methods of increasing the humidity. Over-humidifying a plant may result in rot, while under-humidifying a plant may result in browning and crisped leaves. Neither is good, so knowing your plant's humidity requirements is essential.

Low Humidity

Some plants, like succulents and cacti, evolved in very dry climates. These plants typically require low humidity, and may rot in high humidity situations. These plants will thrive in the driest part of your house (as long as the light is bright enough). In you have a naturally dry house and do not wish to invest in a humidifier, succulents and low-humidity plants will be most comfortable in your space.

High Humidity

Tropical plants are the opposite. They range from room-humidity to high-humidity needs. Plants with high humidity needs, like Ferns or Calathea, would likely do well on a bathroom window, or in a room with a humidifier. High humidity plants also do well in clusters, as plants will increase the humidity around themselves.

I personally recommend this humidifier, which I've used with my plants for years and can be seen in the photo above.

Many common houseplants, however, are perfectly fine in the standard humidity you likely already have in your home. Be sure to check a plant's humidity needs before finding it a new home.

Other factors

Other factors you want to keep in mind when choosing a home for your new plant include temperature, pet safety, and accessibility.

Make sure your plant won't get too hot or cold where you put it, or else it may stress or damage the plant. Most common houseplants are comfortable at room temperature (between 70 - 80 degrees, F). You'll also want to avoid drafts, vents, or heaters, and keep in mind that windows and doors may get cold during winter.

If you have pets, ensure that any toxic plants are placed well out of the way of your fur baby.

Lastly, make sure your plant is in a space that is accessible enough to you to regularly check on it! You'll want to be able to feel the soil, check for pests, and spot any damage before it's too late.